Nervous Toes

Yesterday morning, I had a phone interview with a university in New Zealand. I've applied for a Teacher Training program there, which would start in February, if I'm accepted.
I somehow managed not to stutter and stumble over my answers too much, or bite any remaining fingernails that hadn't already been nibbled off during last week's anticipation. But it was like playing "20 Questions" with a robot... no response, other than "Very good. Next question..." They told me I should hear back within two weeks. So for now, it's the oh-so-familiar, not-so-comfortable waiting game...

(photo shout-out: Nervous Toes by my cousin becki )

Love, Korea

Autumn beauty gleaned from a weekend wandering.

Deceived by an Apple

I bought a new cleaning product from the mini-mart close to my apartment. They didn't have the one I usually buy in stock, and as I couldn't read any of the labels, I chose the one with a green apple on it, thinking it might have a nice fresh scent. Oh, Eve, will you never learn? Spent some of Saturday morning cleaning, and I'm pretty sure this product is high-content, if not pure, bleach. My bathroom smells like a swimming pool, and my head feels like it's swimming now too... from inhaling fumes in an enclosed space, while scrubbing tile grout on my hands and knees. Whew... strong stuff. But the bathroom is sparkling!

Oh, and more about my bathroom (I can't believe I haven't blogged about this already)... it has been quite the experience! My shower is open-concept... as in the shower head is mounted on the wall beside the sink, and there is a drain on the floor beneath the sink. So everything gets wet. I mean everything... the walls, the floor, the sink, mirror, toilet, and my towels if I forget to take them out. The toilet paper has a little plastic flap that protects it from getting drenched, and the power outlet also has a cover. But let me tell you... it is not pleasant to use the bathroom after showering.... for a while the toilet seat just stays wet. It kind of feels like a not-yet-trained child was there before you!

In winter, the tile floor is icy cold, as the bathroom's back wall is adjacent to the unheated hallway, and has none of that nice in-floor heating that is in the rest of the apartment. So I would stand, shivering, in the center of the circle of warmth that the hot water makes on the floor around me, and then scurry outta there as soon as possible. I guess it was good for water conservation! And I understand now why Koreans love their saunas and spas, in winter especially. You see them out in the streets most mornings and evenings, carrying a basket of toiletries, on their way to or from the public bathhouses. I haven't made it there yet, as I am told bathing suits are not permitted (men and women bathe separately, but together with their own sex) and I'm not sure I'm quite brave enough for that! A pleasant feature in my bathroom, however, are the seahorse stickers on the floor, which I think are supposed to be grips for your feet. Most are missing parts of their fins or tails, but this one is perfectly intact!



I don't think any shower experience could be as bad as that time in an Ecuadorian hotel, when I electrocuted myself (twice) in the shower, by trying to change the position of the shower head, with my wet hand. The shower head had unenclosed wires wrapped around it, and I felt a current of electricity, in my fingers through to my elbow! Conversely, I don't think any shower experience could be as wonderful as biodegradeable shampoo in the lake in summer at home, or as peculiar as showering in a solar-heated makeshift bathroom in Fiji, with cracks beneath the door wide enough for a rooster to stroll in and have a look, and numerous geckos flitting around the ceiling above my head. Or... as beautifully simplistic and memorable as that gorgeous sunny last day at camp in Ecuador, when three of us showered out of a bucket drawn up from the camp's well. Really, my bathroom here is relatively quite sophisticated!

Summer Nights

Campfire last night at Gujora Beach with friends. We even managed to make s'mores! Although the marshmallows were pink and the cookies were not quite honey grahams. It's all about improvisation when you live in a foreign country and attempt to recreate your own culture...

Tulips, Two Lips

Sorry, I've been AWOL... a wedding and international time travel and family reunions and roadies with cuzzies and such! You know, the usual... ;0)
Here are some snaps from Ali and Phil's wedding, more coming soon... CLICK HERE, if you're interested!

Fresh Air Friends

I love days like this... spent mainly in the Great Outdoors! Making the most of the milder, finally-feels-like-Spring weather, a small crew of us caught a $1 bus ride to the bottom of Geoje-do, to a sweet spot called Mangsan. I had been there once before, in Autumn, and was keen to get back... it is about a half-day hike, following the ridge along a small range of mountains, with most of it along the coast, so there are some stellar views! We packed a picnic, and one of the guys brought a camping stove and some marinated meat and veggies, which you wrap up in lettuce leaves and eat (a Korean specialty called bulgogi.) Food really does taste amazing outside in the fresh air, especially after you've worked up an appetite for it! Of course, that was before we got told off (in Korean, haha) for using our camping stove in the park. I guess it was a no-fire zone! Oh well, the meat was cooked, and we had already finished eating most of it by that point. The hike finished up at pretty Myeongsa, a sandy beach with shells littering the water's edge. After chillin' there for awhile, we managed to miss the bus home... even though a valiant attempt was made to run after it and flag it down! Hitchhiking seems easy enough on the island, though, and we soon found a ride with a bunch of Korean Samsung workers, in their faded grey-blue uniforms, on a private Samsung bus. A few of them attempted conversation with us, using their cellphone translators to communicate. The fresh sea air, warm food and time spend with new friends and old... made for an all-around awesome Saturday!

Haeundae Beach

A gaggle of girls on a free Saturday

A cityside beach known as Haeundae

Cool sea breezes, but sun at its best

Space to roam free or curl up and rest

Coffee to warm up noses and toes

Convos to lighten the corners of souls

This light and this wind

is a simple heart's pleasure

Even birds know the secret-

together is treasure!

-Fun photos and terrible poetry, gleaned from yesterday's morning meanderings at Haeundae Beach in Busan. Girlz day out. ;0)

Tornado Season 5

I had no idea what I was getting myself into. One of the teachers at my school had some discounted tickets to a Muay Thai boxing match last night, and a whole crew of us ended up going. Muay Thai is Thailand's national sport, and is a form of martial arts, in which fighters use eight points of contact; their hands, shins, elbows and knees. This is the main way it differs from Western boxing, where only two points of contact are used (the fists) or other common forms, where four points are used (the fists and feet). The rounds started off with two young boys... who didn't look any older than seven or eight! The audience was so well-behaved. There were no screaming soccer moms or ranting hockey fans to be seen! There was some polite clapping and a little cheering, but for anyone who has been to a hockey game in Canada or a rugby match in New Zealand, you might have mistaken this sports arena for a movie theater, everyone sitting so still and staring at the screen. Their silence is not to be mistaken for disinterest, however, because there were moments where the Koreans were so intense on what was happening in the ring, it felt like a whole room full of people all holding their breath at the same time! There were competitors from various countries; Thailand, Japan, Korea, and one guy from Canada, to name a few. Things got a little bloodier as the rounds progressed, one instance in particular where a bloody nose made foot placement a little slippery, and they had to pause the round to wipe up the mess with a white towel. My stomach got a little queasy at that point! I observed some interesting pre-round rituals that various individuals practiced, some kneeling down before entering the ring, some head to head with their teacher/coach for a moment of prayer before beginning, some parading around to four corners of the ring, giving their respect to spectators in each direction. A few fighters wore interesting headdresses, that circled their heads and jutted out at the back, with colorful tassels hanging from the ends. This was removed by the fighter's coach before they began the match. It was all very interesting.... witnessing my first boxing match, a Muay Thai event in South Korea. Anyways, here are some more pics...

Night Hike

I tried to fit in a hike before sunset last night, and made it to the top of a nearby mountain just in time to capture some of these sweet shots of a glowing Geoje city and the sun setting over the water. The ships looked amazing all lit up. Geoje Island boasts two major shipyards; Daewoo (or DSME) Shipyard which is in nearby city, Okpo, and Samsung Heavy Industries, which is pictured below. It was a lovely end to the day, but I had to scramble down in the dark, and my cat-eye night vision wasn't working... I ended up slipping and twisting my ankle. Nothing too serious (and I didn't smash the camera, thankfully!) but my foot is still quite stiff and sore today, so I think I'll be giving 'er a rest for awhile.

A Weekend Wandering

Spent a lazy Saturday exploring the bustling metropolis of Busan, with Jen and AJ, Dan and Lindz (whom I will henceforth refer to as "The Marrieds") and Kate, one of the teachers I work with. It was a rather overcast day so we mostly just passed the time window-shopping, people-watching, and browsing through some art galleries. Highlights of my day include:

1. The wonderful man who nearly drove into us on his bicycle, grinned at us and yelled something in Korean... then proceeded to make faces and peace signs at us until AJ walked over to talk to him, at which point he hugged AJ's arm like he was clutching a teddy bear and didn't look like he would ever let go. AJ, kindhearted bloke that he is, simply hugged the man back.

2. These young lads who were jammin' it out on a park bench. I recognized the Once soundtrack from a distance... they were singing in English! Couldn't resist joining them...

3. Our $3-apiece Galbi meal at this restaurant Kate found; it was very inexpensive and it tasted great! Galbi is a popular Korean meal, usually pork or beef ribs marinated in garlic, soy sauce, and ginger and cooked on a grill in front of you. Actually, they usually bring you the meat raw, and you cook it yourself. You wrap the meat in a leaf, adding some veggies, kimchi, and various sauces, and then munch on it. Rabbit-style. All the little side dishes are shared amongst the diners, and everyone dips their chopsticks into the communal bowls.

4. And last but not least, this cozy grandpa sweater I bought from a second-hand market stall... I love it because it has little grey kiwi birds knitted into it! Anyone who knows my fondness for New Zealand, will understand my delight in finding this treasure of a sweater, just at the turning of the seasons...

...although some of my comrades seem to think they look like malnourished elephants. Perhaps you can settle the argument. Cast your vote here in the comments section, if you so desire! Kiwi, elephant, or... other?

Hakdong Pebble Beach

Spent most of a Saturday afternoon following the coastal road on foot that winds its way from sandy Gujora Beach, to Hakdong Beach, which is strewn with smooth, rounded pebbles. Ate some bibimbap at a local restaurant. Bibimbap is a rice dish mixed with a variety of veggies, some chilli pepper paste, and other sauces, and is usually topped with some meat or an egg. It's a pretty common meal here. This restaurant specialized in raw fish, due to it's seaside proximity, so my meal was... fresh. I ate most of it... Korean-style, sitting crosslegged on a floor cushion, holding chopsticks. The day turned rather grey and overcast towards the end, and because of either misinterpreting the bus schedule or missing the last bus home, we sat on a bench at a bus stop in the increasingly cold autumn air, until well after dark. Eventually, we ended up hitching a ride off a lovely Korean woman, who didn't speak a word of English, but played Norah Jones in her car. I found myself winding my way home through dark mountains and twinkling lights, rather exhausted from all the fresh air, exercise, and warm food, with Norah crooning sweet and mellow lullabies in my ears.

Hakdong Pebble Beach, Geoje-do, South Korea

Room with a View

I went for a sweet hike today, with the Canadians, Dan and Lindsay, an American couple, Mike and Alyssa, and a Korean teacher from one of their schools, Julie. It was definitely one of the most challenging hikes I've done here. We pretty much blitzed straight up a mountain, but the views and the breeze at the top made it so worth it! Have you ever driven for a long time by endlessly rolling fields and hills, when all of a sudden you catch a glimpse of the ocean and your heart catches in your throat and you start getting really excited, as though you've just seen the love of your life? Or felt like Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music, singing "The Hills Are Alive" at the top of her lungs, in a mountaintop field full of flowers? I totally had that experience coming out of the trees today and into the open sunshine, with this gorgeous landscape sprawling out in front of me. I just wanted to start frolicing like a little kid! Which I didn't, for the sake of the others with me. It'd be nice if they'd think of me as somewhat normal for a few more weeks, seeing as how I've just met three of them today. Don't want to put it all out there at once, you know. That's how you scare away your potential friends. ;0) Never mind, I'm blah-ing! Here are some pics from the hike:

Festival of Light

I took an evening bus to Jinju after work last night to experience the Namgang Lantern Festival there. It was magical! The city's waterfront was bustling until about 2am, with people wandering up and down both sides of the Namgang river, and around a large fortress above it, admiring the many floating lanterns that were reflecting their colored brilliance onto dark, oily water. The festival has historical significance to these people, dating back to a period of Japanese invasion in 1592, when a Korean general used lanterns in the sky and torches on the river to send military signals to his troops. The soldiers also used lanterns to express their safety to family and supporting forces outside the fortress. The whole place reminded me of some sort of surreal dream, although sleep deprivation may have contributed to that. The diversity of the lanterns was amazing, ranging in size from larger-than-life, Disney-esque and rather garish, to the most exquisite handmade paper ones hanging in an archway. I spent most of my time in this tunnel of light, craning my neck to examine each one. They were by far my favorites, each lantern so different in its design, expressing the unique creativity of hundreds of individuals. It was beautiful.

Another favorite of the larger lanterns was this dragon, which actually moved and breathed real fire. I felt like the Paper Bag Princess standing beneath it's enormous head and moving claws.

Overall, a brilliant night. Slept a few hours in a nearby motel and then caught a morning bus back to Geoje-do, after a coffee and a quick browse through a Chinese photography exhibit in a local gallery. (Wish you were here to share this adventure with me: Ally-Lee, Isadora, and Beckstargirl! I think you three especially would've LOVED it.)

Consumerism Central

We took a three-hour bus ride to Costco today! Kate, one of the American teachers from my school, wanted to get some food that is not as common in the Korean supermarkets. So we made a day of it, and five of the girls; Kate, Jess (the girlfriend of an Aussie teacher at my school), Jen (Hen), Lindsay (from Toronto) and I, piled onto a bus, stowing our suitcases underneath, because they are easier to cart around than bags upon bags of heavy groceries. We made an interesting sight for the Koreans, I'm sure, walking around a city with our suitcases full of food. I must say that is the farthest I have ever travelled to get food, and some of those groceries would have had to have travelled an impressively long way to get to Costco, so it really was quite a ridiculous effort! One that I can't see myself doing again anytime soon. Perhaps my tune will change in a few months, when I'm homesick for food from Canada, but I don't feel like I've been here long enough to miss the food from home, so in some ways, today felt unnecessary and excessive. I did come home with a lifetime supply of organic peanut butter... a lifetime supply because, being Costco, everything you buy is in bulk! How much peanut butter can one person really injest in a year? We shall see. Let the peanut butter experiment begin!

Ah... but we had fun. Lindsay and Jen are pictured below...

Highlights:

Fitting five shopping carts and five girls into one elevator.

Plenty of travel time to daydream and pray.

The beautiful landscape rolling by my tinted bus window.

My freezer full of food at the end of the day.

Lowlights:

The pink chicken in my wrap at lunchtime.

Spending most of a Saturday on a bus.

Upon arrival at home, attempting to make a fruit smoothie for Jen with some of the frozen fruit we'd bought, only to find out that my blender doesn't work.

The overhanging conscientiousness of the consumer who knows how much of the world's resources went into the few edible items that now fill her freezer. Oh dear.

Night Rider

I arrived in Busan last night at around 9pm to find the owner of my school waiting, with his shy but cheerful countenance, ready to lug my ridiculously heavy suitcases to his car. His car was a night rider. The kind of car you would want to take on a long road trip through the night, like those many trips I've experienced from New Jersey to Nova Scotia, and vice versa. Dark on the outside, with dark leather interior on the inside, it had incredibly comfortable seats and chillin' music. Korean slow jams. He had even purchased a bottle of water for me, and placed it in the cupholder beside me. I know I was tired enough that I could easily have slept on a park bench and thought it was the most comfortable bed in the world, but the two hour ride out to Geoje island was lovely. I drifted in and out of sleep and conversation, with flashing headlights, signs I couldn't read, reflective oily bodies of water, and patches of deep darkness as the landscape for my half-shut eyes. Korean drivers have a bit of a reputation for driving like my dad, and this dude was cruising! Sometimes I felt like I was still on the plane... we were definitely flying.

When we arrived at my apartment, the school's director and another Korean teacher were there to meet me. They looked about as tired as I was, it was after 11pm at this point, and I later discovered they had just finished cleaning my apartment after a previous teacher had moved out of it. They were very kind to me, though, and had left some household items, including fruit, bread, cereal, milk and coffee, some clean hand towels, and a new pillow on my bed.

My poor feet. I wish I had taken a picture to show you. This is where the true Princess Fiona as an ogre comes out. They were all swollen and puffy and red, uncomfortably wedged in my polka dot flats. I did get up, walk around and stretch numerous times on the 14-hour long flight from New York to Seoul, but nonetheless, my feet were hideous. Happy to be home.

After everyone had left, I opened my suitcase to find that one of the carefully packed packages of fairly-traded Mexican Morning coffee had busted open all over the contents of my suitcase, leaving coffee grounds in my shoes, in every layer of clothing, and even in between some of the photographs I had brought. Oh dear. My apartment was heavily perfumed with the scent of coffee, which is usually a smell I associate with waking up in the morning, but I was so ready to sleep. I found my bedsheets, which thankfully had been vacuum-packed in plastic and were free of coffee grounds, made my bed, and got into it. Some messes are better dealt with in the morning!